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Mini-review: Wheel House

March 07, 2012|By Emily Van Zandt | RedEye

Wheel House

3553 N. Southport Ave. 773-325-0123

Rating: 2 1/2 (out of four) Take it or leave it

The scene: Address look familiar? Until just a few weeks ago, Wheel House was Wrigleyville staple Messner’s. The bar got a face lift on the outside, but things on the inside are looking very much the same. Expect plenty of TVs, busy waitresses and loud groups. Overheard from my table: An argument as to whether “Semi-Charmed Life” was the most annoying song of all time. No way, bro.

The drinks and food: The menu has been updated and thankfully, they’re keeping it simple. People really aren’t looking for more than a good burger when they go to a sports bar, so Wheel House tries to accommodate with a long list of burgers named after Cubs’ personalities. Not into meat? You could go for the customizable mac ‘n’ cheese or a salad. Looking for a snack? A short list of apps includes fried pickles, which were pleasantly crispy and vinegar-y, but served with a dipping sauce that tasted too much like tartar sauce for my liking. The bottle and draft list is longer than expected, with some good Midwestern craft options, but I’d put my money on most people here opting for standard domestic pitchers.

Bottom line: I mean, I guess it’s Wrigleyville? So no matter what, people are going to be here. And props to them for not over-extending on their menu.

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