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Mini-review: The Butcher & Larder

Simplicity isn't a bad thing at this sandwich shop

February 08, 2012|By Lisa Arnett | RedEye

The Butcher & Larder
1026 N. Milwaukee Ave. 773-687-8280
Rating: !!! (out of four) Off to a good start

The scene: This Noble Square butcher shop's spare look and smoked-meat scent put the focus (rightly so) on former Mado chef Rob Levitt's cut-to-order meats from local farms.

The food: Look to the countertop chalkboard for daily soup and sandwich options (one hot, one cold). This isn’t Grahamwich; sammies are simple and rustic, not piled high with gourmet embellishments. We loved the tasty, not overly saucy sloppy joe made with ground beef from Elkhorn, Wis.-based Dietzler Farms. Though the cold option by nature couldn't comfort as much as that sloppy joe, thick slices of porchetta (pork belly and loin roasted with garlic and rosemary) match nicely with tangy pickled fennel. The $10 price includes a drink (try the Sprecher's root beer) and a bag of Jay's potato chips. Grab your order to-go or take a stand at the counter.

Tip: Sandwiches are served till 7 p.m. Monday and Wednesday through Saturday, but when they’re gone for the day, they’re gone. At 6 p.m. on a recent weeknight, we snagged the last porchetta sandwich. 

Bottom line: Foodies north of North Avenue may not stray from Sterling Goss as their go-to indie butcher, but the Butcher & Larder is worth a stop for simple sandwiches.

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