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Mini-review: Fogon

New West Town restaurant falls flat on Latin flavor

February 06, 2012|By Lisa Arnett | RedEye

1235 W. Grand St. 312-421-2000
Rating: !! (out of 4) Give it some time

The scene: Fogon, a pan-Latin eatery in West Town from the owners of Amelia’s Mestizo Grill, skips the stereotypical bright-colors-everywhere look; instead, the high ceilings, white columns and big windows lend a gallery-like feel.

The food: Hit or miss. The server said the best dish on the menu was the corn truffle quesadillas with chihuahua cheese and creme fraiche ($9), and true, it was the only thing our table really raved about. Ceviche ($13) was dominated by diced tomato rather than chunks of seafood, and the lobster empanada ($12) was too laden with sun-dried tomato pesto to taste any lobster hiding inside. But the basic guacamole ($9), lacking that addictive avocado creaminess because of way too many tomatoes, was the biggest disappointment.

The drinks: Sure, the cactus-stemmed glasses veer into cheesy territory, but salt-rimmed margaritas served on the rocks hit just the right notes of sour, sweet and boozy.

Bottom line: I’d really like to lounge on Fogon’s gorgeous planter-lined patio and order more than just a margarita, so fingers crossed that the restaurant fixes some of those misses by the time the weather warms up for good.

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